Secret to Squaring the Clubface

By | on September 28, 2017 | 8 Comments | Array


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Paul Wilson is the creator of Swing Machine Golf and founder of Ignition Golf. Paul's golf swing technique is based on the Iron Byron swing machine. YouTube Channels: Paul Wilson Golf and Ignition Golf Tips. Please Join me on Google+

8 Responses to “Secret to Squaring the Clubface”

  1. November 9, 2012



    thanks for all the great tips. My ball flight will start out straight or just left of straight and then spin and fall to the right my target. What do you recommend i work on to correct this? I think i’m still cutting across the ball with my club face a bit open. Struggling to get to squaure especially so with the driver.

  2. September 28, 2017


    I was very interested in your tip on “squaring the face”. My question: You said that the face is open in the backswing, and will not fully return to square until about 3′ after you hit the ball (with woods). Wouldn’t that mean that the face will always be slightly open at impact?
    “A Little Confused”
    Bill Morris

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      September 29, 2017

      Paul Wilson


      Yes, the face is open to your body at impact but square to the target line. It is then square to your body at the release point.

      If your shoulders were square at impact then the face would be square to the line and your body but your body is not square at impact. It is open.


      Shoulders At Impact:

  3. February 7, 2018


    As always, thanks Paul for your excellent instructions….I do have a question though——I watched your tips on rolling your wrists early as you speed up turning your body but Iron Byron isn’t able to do that as motor drives the club——yet, the balls go consistently straight….So I’m wondering doesn’t holding the lag angle longer provide enough whip the generate sufficient clubhead speed to add distance, instead Of trying to simply turn faster to get longer shots??? Again, the Iron Byron machine can’t “roll the wrists early” to close the club face when turning faster, right? So wouldn’t it be better to maintain a more controllable turning speed and let the extra lag on the club give the distance a boost??? Thx in advance for your help, as always!!!!

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      February 8, 2018

      Paul Wilson


      The arm unit has to be connected to something. You cannot just use the arm unit even if it is working perfectly. So the arm unit is connected to your body. Turn your body faster and the club whips faster. Just like Iron Byron. It’s arm unit is connected to the driveshaft which is moved by the motor.

      You are doing the right over to stop slice spin. If you were hooking it I wouldn’t tell you to roll it. So once you get rid of slice spin you turn faster for more power. Got to get the spin first though.

  4. Paul,

    I had written you earlier that I had increased my driver distance from 200 to 230 using your swing methods. I felt like there was maybe a bit more but when I pressed it bad things began to happen. So, I followed your advice of “Confidence Breeds Distance.” Swinging slow and within myself my distance has now creeped out to the 250+ range when I really strike it well. BTW, I’m 68 years old and doing this at sea level. Golf is so much fun when played the Wilson way.

    My problem is sometimes not getting the face squared up and the ball peels off the right. I am a bit confused on this video. If the club doesn’t square up until two feet past impact when the arms are fully stretched, isn’t the clubface then still open at impact? Am I going to have to consciously roll the wrists over to get square at impact rather than just “letting it happen?”

    This problem only seems to happen to me with the driver and maybe a three-wood (longer clubs). Shorter ones seem to square fine when I use powerless arms and loose wrists.

    Any advice for me?


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