thanks for all the great tips. My ball flight will start out straight or just left of straight and then spin and fall to the right my target. What do you recommend i work on to correct this? I think i’m still cutting across the ball with my club face a bit open. Struggling to get to squaure especially so with the driver.
Once you can hook it you need to forget the hooking and get the lower body starting first. If you do it you will hit it dead straight. There are a ton of videos on how to do this.
Paul:
I was very interested in your tip on “squaring the face”. My question: You said that the face is open in the backswing, and will not fully return to square until about 3′ after you hit the ball (with woods). Wouldn’t that mean that the face will always be slightly open at impact?
“A Little Confused”
Bill Morris
As always, thanks Paul for your excellent instructions….I do have a question though——I watched your tips on rolling your wrists early as you speed up turning your body but Iron Byron isn’t able to do that as motor drives the club——yet, the balls go consistently straight….So I’m wondering doesn’t holding the lag angle longer provide enough whip the generate sufficient clubhead speed to add distance, instead Of trying to simply turn faster to get longer shots??? Again, the Iron Byron machine can’t “roll the wrists early” to close the club face when turning faster, right? So wouldn’t it be better to maintain a more controllable turning speed and let the extra lag on the club give the distance a boost??? Thx in advance for your help, as always!!!!
The arm unit has to be connected to something. You cannot just use the arm unit even if it is working perfectly. So the arm unit is connected to your body. Turn your body faster and the club whips faster. Just like Iron Byron. It’s arm unit is connected to the driveshaft which is moved by the motor.
You are doing the right over to stop slice spin. If you were hooking it I wouldn’t tell you to roll it. So once you get rid of slice spin you turn faster for more power. Got to get the spin first though.
I had written you earlier that I had increased my driver distance from 200 to 230 using your swing methods. I felt like there was maybe a bit more but when I pressed it bad things began to happen. So, I followed your advice of “Confidence Breeds Distance.” Swinging slow and within myself my distance has now creeped out to the 250+ range when I really strike it well. BTW, I’m 68 years old and doing this at sea level. Golf is so much fun when played the Wilson way.
My problem is sometimes not getting the face squared up and the ball peels off the right. I am a bit confused on this video. If the club doesn’t square up until two feet past impact when the arms are fully stretched, isn’t the clubface then still open at impact? Am I going to have to consciously roll the wrists over to get square at impact rather than just “letting it happen?”
This problem only seems to happen to me with the driver and maybe a three-wood (longer clubs). Shorter ones seem to square fine when I use powerless arms and loose wrists.
I would advise for you to watch the next few videos I have posted here. Get rid of the slice/fade first. Get the golf club releasing and then you will stop hitting shots out to the right. Watch these tips:
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8 Responses to “Secret to Squaring the Clubface”
November 9, 2012
thomasflahertyPaul:
thanks for all the great tips. My ball flight will start out straight or just left of straight and then spin and fall to the right my target. What do you recommend i work on to correct this? I think i’m still cutting across the ball with my club face a bit open. Struggling to get to squaure especially so with the driver.
November 10, 2012
Paul WilsonTom, You are slicing it. So you need to check your alignment first. Make sure you are squarely aligned.
Watch:
Alignment: https://ignitiongolf.com/golf-alignment
Then you need to get the ball hooking:
Manually Square the Clubface: https://ignitiongolf.com/impact-squaring-clubface
Manually Square the Clubface (Follow Up): https://ignitiongolf.com/impact-squaring-face-follow-up
Once you can hook it you need to forget the hooking and get the lower body starting first. If you do it you will hit it dead straight. There are a ton of videos on how to do this.
Watch:
Legs Touching: https://ignitiongolf.com/touch-knees
This is also explained in both my book and full swing video series.
September 28, 2017
BillMorrisPaul:
I was very interested in your tip on “squaring the face”. My question: You said that the face is open in the backswing, and will not fully return to square until about 3′ after you hit the ball (with woods). Wouldn’t that mean that the face will always be slightly open at impact?
“A Little Confused”
Bill Morris
September 29, 2017
Paul WilsonBill,
Yes, the face is open to your body at impact but square to the target line. It is then square to your body at the release point.
If your shoulders were square at impact then the face would be square to the line and your body but your body is not square at impact. It is open.
Watch:
Shoulders At Impact: https://ignitiongolf.com/impact-shoulders/
February 7, 2018
RandMellorAs always, thanks Paul for your excellent instructions….I do have a question though——I watched your tips on rolling your wrists early as you speed up turning your body but Iron Byron isn’t able to do that as motor drives the club——yet, the balls go consistently straight….So I’m wondering doesn’t holding the lag angle longer provide enough whip the generate sufficient clubhead speed to add distance, instead Of trying to simply turn faster to get longer shots??? Again, the Iron Byron machine can’t “roll the wrists early” to close the club face when turning faster, right? So wouldn’t it be better to maintain a more controllable turning speed and let the extra lag on the club give the distance a boost??? Thx in advance for your help, as always!!!!
February 8, 2018
Paul WilsonRandy,
The arm unit has to be connected to something. You cannot just use the arm unit even if it is working perfectly. So the arm unit is connected to your body. Turn your body faster and the club whips faster. Just like Iron Byron. It’s arm unit is connected to the driveshaft which is moved by the motor.
You are doing the right over to stop slice spin. If you were hooking it I wouldn’t tell you to roll it. So once you get rid of slice spin you turn faster for more power. Got to get the spin first though.
June 28, 2021
MichaelBarrettPaul,
I had written you earlier that I had increased my driver distance from 200 to 230 using your swing methods. I felt like there was maybe a bit more but when I pressed it bad things began to happen. So, I followed your advice of “Confidence Breeds Distance.” Swinging slow and within myself my distance has now creeped out to the 250+ range when I really strike it well. BTW, I’m 68 years old and doing this at sea level. Golf is so much fun when played the Wilson way.
My problem is sometimes not getting the face squared up and the ball peels off the right. I am a bit confused on this video. If the club doesn’t square up until two feet past impact when the arms are fully stretched, isn’t the clubface then still open at impact? Am I going to have to consciously roll the wrists over to get square at impact rather than just “letting it happen?”
This problem only seems to happen to me with the driver and maybe a three-wood (longer clubs). Shorter ones seem to square fine when I use powerless arms and loose wrists.
Any advice for me?
Thanks
Mike
July 1, 2021
Paul WilsonI would advise for you to watch the next few videos I have posted here. Get rid of the slice/fade first. Get the golf club releasing and then you will stop hitting shots out to the right. Watch these tips:
How to Release the Golf Club: https://ignitiongolf.com/impact-wrist-release/
Release Angles: https://ignitiongolf.com/downswing-release-angles/
What Happens If You Don’t Release It: https://ignitiongolf.com/impact-what-happens/